Iranian Designer Jila Saber on Her Political Cannes Dress

By Christian Allaire

Amid the sea of glamorous gowns at the premiere of Ken Loach's The Old Oak during the 76th annual Cannes Film Festival last week, one stood out from the pack. Iranian model Mahlagha Jaberi wore a Jila Atelier design that featured a halter-style neckline shaped into a golden noose. It was an intentional political statement that instantly went viral. "We wanted to make a fashion statement to observe the glamour of Cannes, but more importantly, to bring media attention to the wrongful executions of Iranian people," wrote Jaberi on Instagram.

The death penalty is currently being used by Iranian officials as a means to maintain power and instill fear in anti-regime protestors. According to Human Rights Watch, Iranian authorities have executed at least 60 people since late April, many of them after unfair trials and for charges such as drug offenses or "blasphemy." CNN also reports that Iran executed at least 582 people last year—a 75% increase from 2021.

For Iranian designer Jila Saber, who designed Jaberi's impactful Cannes dress, the red carpet was an opportunity to make people aware of what's occurring in her native country. "Many innocent young people have been executed during the last six months, and there are still many in danger," Saber tells Vogue. "As an artist, I believe that we need to stand against this and open up the eyes of the world."

Prior to her powerful creation walking the Cannes carpet, it took Saber five months to complete the garment. "The dress is 100% silk, and the accessory is a hollow rope chain, which was forged into the shape of a noose," says Saber. The designer had made gowns for Jaberi several times before this, and the two bonded over the idea of using a Cannes look to make a bigger statement. "We shared this idea ever since the executions began in our country Iran," says Saber, "and we were thinking about creating something to display our fight against this injustice to the world."

It's a miracle that Jaberi and Saber were able to have the dress be seen; such political statements at Cannes are banned from the red carpet. (A Ukrainian influencer was removed from the carpet this year after dousing herself in fake blood—a statement in protest of Russia's invasion of Ukraine.) While Jaberi was photographed in her dress, she was stopped by security before she could showcase the back of it; it featured the phrase "Stop Executions" on the train. "Because of the rules of the Cannes festival, they made her hide the back of the dress," says Saber. "There was nothing on the dress to inform the people about what the design was for, but regardless, everyone understood the message—and the design is all over the news. Therefore, the design speaks for itself."

The viral moment has been surreal for Saber. "We expected positive feedback, but, honestly, not to this extent," she says. "I cried when I first saw her on the red carpet, and I’m still very emotional about this dress and its message." As a result, she continues to see fashion as a powerful medium for something much bigger than just dressing up. "This is the first time that I’m using my art to make a statement, because this is an important point in time in my home country. Our people have been suffering for decades under the current regime," she says. "I believe all artists, fashion designers, musicians, actors, [and more] should use their art to make a statement in support of the Iranian people. Even these small steps will allow us to create a larger change."