Vogue Verdict: I Tried on Everything From Mugler x H&M and Here’s What I’d Recommend

By Joy Montgomery

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What makes a good fashion collaboration? Is it the melding of two creative visions and the unique design DNA that results? Or does success lie in a lesser-known name being given a platform to bring their work to the masses? Or perhaps it's the alchemy of two creatives meeting across the artistic divide—be it graphic designers, painters, print designers or film directors. Whatever it is, if there's one thing we know to be true, it's that in the right hands fashion collaborations can be internet-breaking.

If there's one collaboration that has the best chance of busting your browser this year it's H&M x Mugler. Dropping on May 11 (time to set those alarms), the collection is a celebration of everything creative director Casey Cadwallader has brought to the French fashion house. And unlike some of H&M's previous designer collaborations, it is notable how close the collection stays to Cadwallader's original runway designs: Think mesh bodysuits, pumped-up shoulder pads, sculptural minidresses, and corseted tops. There are also a handful of pieces that have been lifted directly from the brand's archive—aka Thierry Mugler's ’80s and ’90s greatest hits – and which could, quite honestly, be mistaken for originals. New and OG fans alike will not be disappointed.

But does the collection measure up in reality? I wanted to find out.

For full transparency, before I ventured into the H&M showroom, I had assumed that I was not H&M x Mugler's target audience: I prefer an oversized fit to a skin-tight silhouette and, to the best of my recollection, have never worn a catsuit or anything where mesh and crotch are mentioned in the same breath. Yet, I left my visit with a wishlist of items that I genuinely loved: a vintage-inspired minidress, a pair of perfectly tailored trousers, a men's boxy blazer, and, yes, even one of the collection's much-hyped bodysuits. So what changed my mind?

High street brands have been offering up their own interpretations on Cadwallader's Mugler ever since he joined the fashion house back in 2018, so there was always a risk that, outside the confines of high-fashion fabrics and construction, the brand's body-skimming designs could fall flat. However, the first thing that struck me about the collection was the unexpected weightiness of even the skimpiest items hanging on the rails: the bodysuits had an almost scuba-like sturdiness, while the archival minidresses defied gravity with origami-like fabric folds. This, paired with Mugler's signature monochromatic color palette, meant that I was confronted with a collection that was undeniably beautiful, both on and off the hangers.

Sizing-wise, it's great to see that the collection is available from UK 6-22 (XS-XXL), something that is not a given (indeed, quite rare) for these collections, and it is certainly a step in the right direction. I am a U.K. size 10 and around 5’7", and so, of course, cannot speak for all body shapes, however, I have done my best to detail the accuracy of fit within the pieces of the collection. The one thing I did note was that some pieces came up a small, particularly the more fitted, corseted items, which is good if you’re looking for that waist-whittling look; however, people with bigger busts or curvier arms may want to consider sizing up.

My other tip is to not constrain yourself to just the men's or women's offerings, as the collection has been designed to be mixed and matched. Some of my personal favorites were found in the menswear section; highlights include a boxy blazer, a pair of slouchy jeans, a dramatic leather trench, and an oversized denim shirt. In fact, the juxtaposition of the oversized men's tailoring with the slinky silhouettes of the women's edit are, in my opinion, what create the most elevated looks from the collection.

So, if you’re wondering what to add to basket on May 11, allow me to guide you through the H&M x Mugler pieces that I fell in love with IRL.

By Alexandra Macon

By Emily Chan

By Elise Taylor

This minidress was probably one of my favorite pieces from the collection, thanks to its sculptural folds and padded hips, which together create a dramatic, runway-ready silhouette. You’d never know it wasn't a designer buy. This was, however, one of the pieces that came up small for me—I’m a U.K. 10 and wearing a small, and found that the zip only just did up—so those with bigger busts might want to try one size up.

We might be heading into spring, but this menswear leather trench is worth the investment. With XXL shoulder pads, double-breasted style and waist-tie belt, it's the sort of thing that will look just as good thrown over a white T-shirt and jeans as it will with a spangled party dress and heels. I’m wearing a men's medium and would probably go one size down.

By Alexandra Macon

By Emily Chan

By Elise Taylor

I honestly didn't expect to love any of the collection's sheer paneled bodysuits, however, I was pleasantly surprised by how flattering this long-sleeved number was, especially when styled with the wool cutout trousers, which hung beautifully, thanks to their asymmetric waistline and loose leg (I would say the trousers are true to size: I’m wearing a U.K. 10). I tried on the bodysuit in a U.K. 8, which was very snug, especially on the arms, however, this does help to create that streamlined silhouette—just something to bear in mind if you prefer a little more give.

This incredible minidress was another personal highlight and one of the pieces that came straight from the Mugler archive. Packing all the ’80s supermodel energy you could ever need, the dress comes in luxurious black velvet with abstracted puff sleeves, a stiff peplum, and sculptural points that arch over the bust (an ode to Thierry Mugler's iconic motorcycle corset perhaps?) The dress's structure was impressive, and came with an internal corset to help create that dramatic silhouette. Sizing-wise, similar to the first LBD, it came up small, particularly on the waist—I’m wearing a small, and would consider trying one size up.

By Alexandra Macon

By Emily Chan

By Elise Taylor

As mentioned earlier, the menswear line contains just as many gems as the women's. The black blazer is a classic, oversized piece that will look great with everything from jeans to summer dresses. I’m wearing a men's 50, which is similar to an XL, so you could try small options for a more fitted finish. The leather trousers, meanwhile, were just the right amount of slouch, and came with a statement zip-fly, paneled construction and adjustable zips at the leg opening. I’m wearing a 46/32R, which sat comfortably on my hips.

While the women's blue spiral jeans will cater to skinny jeans lovers, I personally preferred the looseness and longer length of the men's black iterations. I styled them with the men's oversized denim shirt (I’m wearing a men's medium), which would also make a great double-denim pairing with color-match jeans.

By Alexandra Macon

By Emily Chan

By Elise Taylor

For lovers of the Mugler archive, this two-piece suit is worth a look. The devil is definitely in the details here: from the chain fastening and the asymmetric neckline, to the scooped-in waist and pointed pockets. I tried on an XS (U.K. 8), which was too small for me—plus the skirt has a tight, pencil skirt fit—so I would consider going one or two sizes up for a more boxy finish.

I couldn't review H&M x Mugler without giving the full bodysuit (well, the bodysuit paired with the paneled tights) a whirl. I’m not sure I’m quite brave enough to wear this out, however, it felt a little more manageable layered-up with the men's oversized blazer. I’m wearing both pieces in a U.K. 8, and would probably say they are true to size, but designed to be a tight fit.

By Alexandra Macon

By Emily Chan

By Elise Taylor

I have a feeling that this corset is going to be a sellout, and I was suitably impressed by the sturdy construction: from the paneled midsection to the uplifting bust-line. I’m wearing a U.K. 8 here, however I would probably buy a 10 and expect it to be on the tight side. I love the idea of wearing this under a blazer with tailored trousers, for a polished spin on party dressing.

Another addition to the bodycon line-up, but this time it's the rhinestone-studded minidress. Made from the same sculpting fabric as the bodysuits, it was sturdy enough to create a smooth silhouette, but also had enough stretch to be comfortable. I also enjoyed the detail of the longer sleeves and high neckline, which made the whole look feel more elevated. It would also look great worn as a top with jeans and trousers. I’m wearing a size small (U.K. 10) and would say that it is true to size.

By Alexandra Macon

By Emily Chan

By Elise Taylor

When I saw this jacket on the hanger, it was hard to imagine how it would look on, however, I instantly fell for its power shoulders and nipped-in waist—I particularly liked the silhouette created when it was styled with the high-waisted trousers. I never believed that a denim jacket could feel polished, yet this piece proved me wrong.

And last, but by no means least: H&M x Mugler's take on the black-tie gown. Coming true to size (I’m wearing a small), this dramatic gown features an elaborate lace-up back fastening—but no accompanying zip, so don't expect a quick exit—and mesh panels on the bustline and hips. So very Morticia Addams, in the best way possible.